Final Blog Reflection

One theme that I noticed in many of the sites we visited, and in the lectures and reading, was the importance of symbolism in the art. Most of the saints we saw had specific images that showed who they were, which was very valuable in early Christian development. The artists and those who commissioned the art needed a way to show the people who came into the churches or saw the artwork what they were looking at. For example, one pope, St. Clement I, whose house we went to, was portrayed with an anchor, because of the story of his martyrdom. He was tied to an anchor and thrown into the Black Sea, which was later discovered and brought back to Rome. Another example of the way symbolism is used is that St. Peter is often shown with an upside down cross, which represents the way he was martyred. This shows up in churches, statues, and paintings, particularly in Caravaggio's Crucifixion of Peter. Having one symbol to represent a saint makes it easier to communicate the subject of a painting or statue to an illiterate crowd, which was a reality for most of Christianity. This enabled people to know who they were praying to without having to somehow tell a whole story in paint. 

Finally, there is the image of the Chi-Rho. We first learned about this from the textbook, where it said that Constantine had a dream before battle in which he was told to place the "heavenly sign of God" on his shield (pg. 162). This has been interpreted to mean a monogram of the first two letter's of Christ's name, the Chi and the Ro. This battle and his win was part of why Constantine converted to Christianity. Knowing this piece of history, I was excited to see this symbol all over Rome. One example was on an alter placed in the home of St. John and Paul by a later pope. It is interesting how using this symbol for Christianity shows the importance placed on tradition and history, and the way in which art can represent legend. Something I didn't understand about this practice is how it was started. I would want to know who the first person was to use symbols to represent people. Possibly it has been going on for centuries before the Christians started doing it. However, I don't know the origins and it is something I would like to learn. 

Caravaggio's Crucifixion of Peter

Alter with Chi-Ro symbol in the house of St. John and Paul

Another theme I noticed during our time in Rome was the appearance of Pagan ideas and images among the Christian artifacts and traditions. For example, when we went to the burial site below St. Peter's Basilica there were some areas that had a mixture of Christian symbols and Pagan symbols on the tombs. Our guide explained to us that while Christianity was still secret, families still included the Pagan images alongside the Christian ones because they still believed in some of the old traditions. Another place where we can see the influence of Paganism is in the Church of Maria Maggiore. This was the first church built, and the architects did not really know what a church should look like. They drew from the existing examples of pagan structures and came up with the style of church we can see today. There are differences, like the alter being inside rather than on the steps, but they share many similarities. It is interesting that even while building up a new religion to displace Paganism, the rulers of the time were still seeing the benefits of their culture and using it to their advantage. 

Another area where I saw pagan images used during the era of Christianity was the Trevi Fountain. It was two different popes who commissioned the fountain (Urban VIII and Clement XII) and yet the images are very pagan in nature. The papal coat of arms is at the top, and Benedict XIV's name goes across it, but the Pagan image of Ocean is framed in the center. There are many more goddesses portrayed too, like Health and Abundance (http://www.trevifountain.net/iconography.htm). This amalgamation of symbols and imagery is confusing, because it does not make sense for the popes to be supporting statues of Pagan gods. I understand that in earlier centuries it was partly a safety issue to want to hide the Christian images amid Pagan ones, but by 1743, when the Fountain was completed, that would no longer be the case. Maybe the church felt so secure that they no longer feared that images of Paganism would threaten their standing in the world. 

Church of Maria Maggiore, built in 440

Trevi Fountain

The final theme that I observed in Rome was the ability of the Church to evolve with the times. Primarily, there was the effect that the Protestant Reformation and subsequent Catholic Reformation had on the sites we visited. The Council of Trent made changes to the rules of Catholicism in answer to Luther's issues, and these changes can be seen in many of the churches we went to. For example, the Church of the Jesu, a Jesuit church, was the first built after the reform from the Council of Trent. It was built with one big central nave, so the eyes would be drawn to the apse in the front right when someone walked in. It is a similar style to the basilicas built before the Council of Trent, except the alter is placed at the very back, rather than where the apse meets the nave. The sacramental box was also moved to a more central location, because it made people realize how important it was. These were all ways to make the clergy and the sacraments more important, which was vital because Luther had removed the need for clerical interpretation and attacked the sacraments as unnecessary. It was interesting to see the way this church was laid out and compare it with how some of the churches we visited earlier in the trip (like the Churches of Maria Maggiore, Santa Prudenziana, and Santa Prassede) looked, because it represented the changes that occurred after the Council of Trent. In those churches, the alter was further up, showing the connection of Jesus (the head) and the people (the body). I don't understand why that would threaten the ideal of Catholicism, and why the churches after the Council of Trent would have changed that. It seems like a good symbol to engage the people with Jesus.

We also saw a later example of how the Church has tried to demonstrate their willingness to change. We went to the Vatican Observatory, where we learned that the Church only their reputation for being anti-science after the formation of national countries. These countries tried to set up private universities, but no one would pay for an education when there were free schools run by the Church. Therefore they started telling people that the Catholic Church was against science, and that they would get a much better education at the private universities. One of the ways the Church combated this was by setting up the Vatican Observatory. There they study the solar system, and are important contributors to the field. Even though the Church had always had members studying various scientific fields, this was a major step to publicizing it and putting an end to the idea that they were anti-science. I thought it was interesting that it was only in the last few hundred years that the Church got this reputation. It was after the trial of Galileo, which is also interesting, because I would have thought that would have led to the Church being thought of as against science and change. However, no one really believed Galileo at first, so it was not something that was specific to the Church. I do not understand the ways in which people can still justify parts of the Bible that are now proven wrong by science, but that is more of a theological disagreement than an educational question. 

Interior of the Church of the Jesu, with the alter all the way to the back

Telescope at the Vatican Observatory

Overall, I learned so much more about the Catholic Church than I ever expected. It was interesting to note the ways in which outside politics and trends could influence the Church, and the various ways in which they solved problems that they faced. This trip was truly amazing, and I am so glad I got the opportunity to learn more about the Catholic religion and the city of Rome. 

St Peter's Basilica in Vatican City, the heart of the Catholic tradition

Final day!

So this morning, we're all up early to pack up and head out. Some people extended their visits, so they're staying, either in Rome or in a different part of Europe. The rest of us are USA bound!!

Now for a quick recap of the past few days:

Wednesday we left the dorm at 6:30 to walk over to the Vatican. After waiting in a security line, we discovered that we had special tickets that allowed us to sit right next to the stage. 

He sits right under that cross!

It was hard to get a good picture on my iPhone, but here are a few. 

It was honestly pretty boring, because they repeated everything that happened in a bunch of languages. But it was cool to see Francis in the flesh. 

The rest of Wednesday was a free day, after a nice nap, we mostly just wandered around and did some souvineer shopping. 

Thursday was a really unique day. First we headed out of the city to visit the summer palace of the popes. Our tour guide was an astronomer at the Vaitcan Observatory (and once appeared on the Colbert Report) and super knowledgable. He gave us three ironies that have happened in that location. Emperor Domitian, who was the first Roman Empire to make persecuting Christians a policy, built his home there. Now it is the home of the Pope. 

Urban VIII is the pope who called in Galileo to defend his theories. His family was also the one who built the summer palace. Now the Vatican Observatory is built on top of the roof. 

Clement XIV suppressed the Jesuits when he was pope, while living in the palace. Up until a few years ago, Jesuits had lived in the palace for over 75 years. 

(You know I love my fun facts.)

Balcony from which the popes give their audiences while they're staying here

View from the roof. The town is actually built on the lip of a volcano. 

One of the two huge telescopes. We got to go up and look at the sun!

The first ever mailbox

Then we headed back to Rome to visit the Vatican library! Tours aren't allowed, so it was very special that we got in. Pictures also weren't allowed, so here's one of the outside. 

After that we splurged on a resturante (well, my friends did. I was down to my last few euro so I ordered the cheapest thing on the menu. Pasta with lamb meatballs. It was delicious.) and went out for drinks (I don't know what I got but it was amazing).

Friday was a free day until about 5, so my friend and I wandered around Rome doing last minute things. We bought final presents for people back home, got crepes at the Trevi Fountain, and one last cup of gelato. 

Then we headed back to the Lay Center for a final lecture, reflection, and dinner. 

There were also awards handed out to everyone. I got Most Likely to Self Promote, which started put as a joke, but quickly became a thing. We received Popeners from out Catholic a Studies professor, which was bizarre. Not that I'm not going to use it every time I need a bottle opened...

Look how happy they are with their pope bobble heads!

Then we boarded a bus for a night time tour of Rome, and came back to pack up. 

Now we're just waiting for the bus to take us to the airport. These past two weeks have been such an amazing experience! I'm so glad I got to see all of these historical sites, and learn more about a religion that I didn't know that much about. I've made some excellent (Rome) friends, and eaten a lot of good food. At the same time, I'm ready to head home, where I can understand what people are saying to me (for the most part). It's been a fun trip, and I wouldn't trade it for anything!

Arrivederci Roma!

Reflection 6

Being able to see the Vatican Observatory today was such an amazing experience! We got to see the balcony where the Pope gives his audiences when he's at this residence, the telescope used by the astronomers, and learn some history of battles fought around the property. One aspect I found interesting was Guy's discussion of why the Church needed to assert its pro-science position. Even though the issues with Copernicus and Galileo took place in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, it wasn't until the nineteenth century that the rumors of their anti-science stance began to come out. Many countries in Europe had become unified in that century, and opened up private universities. However, not a lot of people wanted to pay to attend them, when they could go to the Church's universities for free. To combat this the private universities started rumors that the church was against science, and so their schools would not offer as good of an education. This idea stuck, and so now the Vatican has had to fix their image and show that they support scientific discovery. 

I also thought it was interesting that it was the priests who were acting as scientists in the pre-modern era. They were the only ones in the community with time and literacy, so it makes sense. Additionally, Guy told us about his background, first as an astronomer, and then as a Jesuit. This reminded me of what we learned in lecture. Namely, that Jesuits were encouraged to study other fields, not just theology. It is clear that the Church was not actually trying to hinder the work of scientists. Rather, they wanted to make sure what people like Galileo were saying was actually accurate before they supported it. I think it is important also to remember the times in which these churchmen were living. No one, even general lay people, would have automatically believed what they had been taught their whole life was wrong. Therefore, I do not think that it was an issue of the Pope trying to shut Galileo up, but rather that they just wanted to fully understand what was happening. Seeing the observatory today helped drive all of that home, and made me realize that the Church is continuing to evolve even today, in order to keep up with the new research that comes out of the scientific community. 

Reflection 5

Seeing the Pope today was a cool way to see how the Catholic Church has evolved since Francis was elected. The Church has been facing issues like how to relate to a changing world, and accusations of child molestation. However, with this new leadership, it seems like people are really excited again about the direction the Church is heading in. We saw that this morning in the sheer number of people who turned up early just to be able to see Pope Francis. I don't have any way to compare it to the number of people who came to see Pope Benedict, but we learned in class that the Vatican does not really know how to deal with so many people for these audiences. Additionally, I learned this morning that the fact that Francis is the first Jesuit Pope, and that he is the first Pope from South America means people are more excited. It represents a shift towards representation of the undeveloped countries in the world, and the lower classes. Since Pope Francis also wants to conduct surveys to get an idea for the beliefs of Catholics, he is clearly trying to make sure the Church goes in a direction that will benefit everyone. I saw so much excitement when he came out in his popemobile, with so many people trying to take pictures and stand on their chairs to see him better, that it has to represent a more positive public opinion of the papacy.

The things that Pope Francis has already done to change the papacy have demonstrated that this is a pope who wants to go back to the actual teachings of Jesus. He rejected the fancy palace and the gaudy clothes in order to live more simply. He turned the house of a fired bishop into a soup kitchen, and there are rumors that he sneaks out at night to serve at a different soup kitchen. He is truly inspiring, even to an atheist like me, and I can't wait to see what else he will do.

Reflection 4

Yesterday was our Caravaggio day, so we presented on various paintings, then went around Rome to see them in person. My favorite painting was The Calling of St. Matthew. It was his first public commission, in 1599/1600. Seeing it in person was so much more inspiring than seeing a picture online had been, and the details were much clearer. It was easier to see Jesus' hand pointing towards Matthew, calling him to his side. I liked the fact that we are not sure which person is actually Matthew, even though the signs throughout the church all shower the man pointing in the middle as Matthew. I think the ambiguity adds meaning to the painting, because it invokes the idea that anyone could be called to Jesus at any time. He was just an ordinary tax collector, and was suddenly called to the church. It was also cool to see all three of Carravaggio's paintings of St. Matthew (his calling, his inspiration, and his martyrdom) hanging together, because it essentially showed his path to heaven and sainthood. One thing I thought was unusual was that all of the men sitting at the table were wearing clothes that were from Carravaggio's time period. That is definitely not what Matthew would have been wearing. However, Jesus and Peter are wearing clothes from the biblical era. I wonder why Carravaggio chose to make this distinction. 

I thought the format of this day was helpful for really understanding these pieces. Being able to talk about each painting and the process Carravaggio went through to get each one where it is today. Are it more special to see them in person. I also found it interesting how so many of his masterpieces were second or third editions. When the church didn't like what he had done, they made him paint a new one or cover up the old one. I can't imagine what his reaction must have been each time they told him to do it again. But like we saw from Michelango's movie, you don't really say no to the church. I wish they would have let him keep the originals, because they showed regular people, not holy saints. We learned in lecture that Carravaggio liked to use ordinary people and the drama of life on the streets as his models, which is more what you can see in his originals. But it does make sense that the church would want the saints portrayed in a more dignified manner. 

Food, Churches, and Art (what else is new?)

I've fallen a bit behind on my travel blogging, because I've been focusing first on my reflection blogs for class. So this is mostly going to be a photo log of what I've done the past few days, with captions for clarification. Enjoy!

Sunday was our second free day, so we travelled to find the gelato place recommended by two of my friends. It was every bit as good as I imagined!

Calzone by the Vatican! Then we wandered the shops to buy souvenirs for people back home. 

Amazing pesto pizza in this cute little cafe we found by the gelato place. I also got strawberry tiramisu that was super good, but I was too full to eat much of it.  

Monday we went to two baroque churches to discuss the Counter- (or Catholic) Reformation. There was a lot of gorgeous artwork because the idea was to amaze the viewer with a "surround sound" experience. 

Hot chocolate from some famous cafe. But not famous enough that any of us had ever heard of it so...

Much like the coliseum the first night, we just happened to walk across the pantheon on the way to the next church. Rome is so cool. 

3D lookin' ceiling in the second church. 

Santa band by the Spanish steps (where I finally decided to buy a knock off purse that I've been condidering all trip). 

I wish we had these in America. Water fountains everywhere!

Beautiful sunset walking out of the metro. 

Today we presented in groups about paintings by Caravaggio, then walked around Rome to the various churches that hold them. This was in the first church, with The Calling of Saint Matthew, The Inspiration of Saint Matthew, and The Martyrdom of Saint Matthew. We actually started in a museum of Capuchin artifacts, which included a crypt of bones displayed in artful arrangements. It was super fascinating, but we weren't allowed to take pictures. 

Apse of the first church

Piazza del Popolo (which is really fun to say). This is the first thing visitors from the north would see when they entered Rome. A lot of emphasis is placed on symmetry. 

This is the painting I was assigned to The Conversion of St. Paul. It's inside the Basilica di Santa Maria del Popolo, which was absolutely gorgeous. The Martyrdom of St. Peter was hanging opposite. 

Apse of the Basilica di Santa Maria del Popolo. I'm pretty sure the cross was crooked. 

The archway to Rome (back in the day at least) that looked into the Piazza del Popolo. 

And we ended the day with caico e pepe at the restaurant Caico e Pepe. Apparently some food or travel network guy went there and really liked it. It was surprisingly good despite the fact that I don't like pepper. 

We are waking up at 6 tomorrow to go see the Pope, so it's time for bed! Good night!